{"id":4765,"date":"2022-01-20T14:21:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-20T19:21:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.alumni.ncsu.edu\/?p=1215"},"modified":"2024-02-01T16:27:18","modified_gmt":"2024-02-01T21:27:18","slug":"aw-shucks","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.ncsu.edu\/2022\/aw-shucks\/","title":{"rendered":"Aw, Shucks"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

By Marti Maguire<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Roy Emerson was in his 50s when he tasted his first raw oyster, sucked straight from the shell minutes after being plucked from Jarrett Bay, near Williston, N.C. At the time, he was helping harvest the shellfish part time, eyeing a career change that would allow for ample time outside in the salty coastal air. Now, oysters are both his livelihood and obsession; he launched his own farm in 2017. \u201cI was like, \u2018Oh, man, this is so great,\u2019\u201d says Emerson, 58, recalling the midmorning snack six years ago. \u201cNow I eat them all the time. I live, eat and breathe oysters.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Emerson hopes to conjure the same oyster magic among visitors to his Roysters NC farm, one of nearly 40 stops on the North Carolina Oyster Trail. A coastal answer to trendy destination trails featuring bourbon, wine or barbecue, the trail allows visitors to learn about\u2009\u2014\u2009and, of course, sample\u2009\u2014\u2009a delicacy that is in the midst of a renaissance in North Carolina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We want to help visitors and tourists understand the role the oyster plays in our environment and our culture. \u2014Jane Harrison<\/p><\/div><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Roy Emerson offers up a “Beaufort Briny” oyster grown in the North River between Beaufort and Harkers Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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An oyster with a tiny pea crab inside (delicious raw or fried).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n
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Bags of small oysters, or seeds, ready to be “planted.”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Roy Emerson tending to his oyster farm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/section>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n

The trail was created by N.C. Sea Grant, an organization based at NC State that conducts research and outreach to benefit coastal communities, in cooperation with the N.C. Coastal Federation and N.C. Shellfish Growers Association. The trail is open-ended; visitors can consult an interactive map and choose to tour one of 16 shellfish farms, view oyster-focused museum exhibits at one of four educational sites, or choose from among 17 restaurants and six markets from the Outer Banks to the Triangle where they can taste North Carolina oysters. Launched in May 2020, the trail aims to boost interest in oysters and educate the public on an organism that benefits the state\u2019s waterways and economy but is threatened by overharvest, storms and habitat loss. Jane Harrison, a coastal economics specialist with N.C. Sea Grant who helped develop the trail, says it covers \u201call of the pieces of the oyster puzzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe want to help visitors and tourists understand the role the oyster plays in our environment and our culture,\u201d says Harrison, a faculty member in NC State\u2019s colleges of Natural Resources and Agriculture and Life Sciences. Faculty from the Department of Parks, Recreation and Tourism Management provided research and support to the trail, helping to build a tourism industry centered on shellfish. As more travelers center trips around food, organizers say, mariculture tourism could provide a new revenue stream for oyster growers and an overall boost to coastal economies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Oysters growing in their cages at Cape Hatteras Oyster Co. in Buxton, N.C.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A favored food dating back to Native Americans, the state\u2019s oysters were shipped nationwide starting in the late 1800s, leading to overharvesting that continued through much of the 20th century. Recent efforts by researchers, nonprofit organizations and seafood growers seek to protect and expand oyster habitats, which provide shelter to fish and improve water quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While oysters were traditionally dredged from natural beds, they are increasingly grown in cages that float on the surface and can be harvested after 10 to 18 months, compared to an average age of three years for wild oysters. In 2019, the state harvest totaled more than 800,000 pounds and was valued at $4.9 million, according to the N.C. Division of Marine Fisheries. That year, farmed oysters outstripped wild harvests for the first time, Harrison and other researchers found, contributing about $14 million to the state\u2019s gross domestic product, more than half of the $27 million shellfish industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


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Oyster Mythbusting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n